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July 25, 2008

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Breaking News - Real Ale Needs Real Grists!

March 7, 2000 -- An Open Letter to Beer Lovers and Brewers by Nick Harris

Nick Harris wants us to maintain the diversity of "real" brewing ingredients in the face of globalization pressures. He has a fascinating point of view.

This letter is a plea to enlist your help with a project that may be of mutual interest.

I have been in the Malting/Brewing/Distilling industry for thirty years and my views are founded on my experience within the trade. In my opinion, we are in danger of loosing our brewing heritage because of many complex commercial pressures prevailing in the farming community right through to the end user. I believe that Globalization and the real nature of our Raw Materials is being rationalized out of existence, not least through Genetic Engineering. This insidious march to World conformity will continue to accelerate if the end users remain apathetic to its happening.

My plea is to those who are concerned by what is being imposed on us by Conglomerates. It was the Brewing Industry which caused the "Real Ale" campaign to start and serious consideration must be applied to a campaign for the maintenance of "Authentic" raw materials. Its not just Genetic Modification that is frightening but the total loss of our cereal heritage in commercially sustainable quantities.

In their bid to increase their Market Share, suppliers believe that they have the ability to replicate a range of products, which for hundreds of years have and can only be produced in their country of origin to retain their uniqueness. This in effect is pricing out of existence viable raw materials which have the least growth potential and which are then conveniently adulterated or worse replaced by fakes. Whether it is ignorance of what is being imposed on us or apathy we should all demand better before it is too late.

Malsters will produce and sell Munich Malt, Pilsner Malt and Vienna Malt regardless of the location of their Maltings or the quality of their Barley and water supply, all of which are very important in the production of good quality malt. The sad fact is that we are being conditioned into accepting this and I believe it's time to stop and reconsider what is really at stake.

A classic example of this absurdity, without wishing to be disrespectful, was a competition in 1997 when an AHA Medallist produced a strong Scotch Ale from Harrington Malt. This is a North American barley variety and is unknown in Scotland by the Brewing fraternity. To add further injury to a Scotsman this North American malt was blended with an English malt! Brown sugar was also added and to my knowledge no brewer in Scotland worth his porridge has ever used this ingredient. The ultimate horror was a quantity of peated malt as part of the grist. Any maltster who knowingly supplied peated malt into a Scottish brewery would be very fortunate to keep his job. Having gone through this list of ingredients I find that less than 6% of the dry grist was actually Scottish (crystal malt). I say well done for winning the medal but Scotch Ale??

The history of Scottish brewing ingredients can be traced back for more than 4000 years. Such authentic ingredients as Kibbled Cereals, Flaked Oats, Pinhead Oats, Malted Oats, Toasted Large Oats, Roasted Pearled Barley, Double Roasted Malt, Organic Malt and Golden Promise. (Many well known Distillers and Brewers in Scotland, such as "The Macallan" and Caledonian Brewery will purchase nothing but Golden Promise Malt purely for its flavour characteristics rather than use the more recently bred barley varieties that are higher yielding)

Other ingredients such as Bog Myrtle, Elderberries, Young Sprigs of Scottish Pine and flowers of heather. All of which were used in ancient times and are currently being used today are available but unlike the above "dry" ingredients would need a little more research regarding harvesting and packaging.

The question is "Would you buy these authentic raw materials if the price was agreeable and shipping volumes could make it viable"?

I would be delighted to receive any replies to this letter and hope that it hasn't offended any readers, as no offence was intended. I have supplied my career details for reference purposes and as reassurance that I have no hidden ulterior motive other than an honest desire to be of help in stopping our delightful pursuit from continuing down the wrong path.

I look forward to receiving your reply,

Yours very sincerely,

Nick Harris.

Nick J. Harris,

3 Oldcastles Farm,

Chirnside,

Berwickshire,

TD11 3LF.

email@NandJHarris.fsnet.co.uk

Career Details

1962-1968 Scottish & Newcastle Breweries Ltd. During this time I held the following appointments: -

Draughtsman, Services Engineer, Development Engineer, Trainee Maltster, Maltings Manager, Group Raw Materials Manager, Operations Division Production Manager.

1985-1997 Hugh Baird & Sons. (CONAGRA) Commercial Manager Scotland.

1986-1993 Proprietor of the Famous Glen Malt Whisky Company. A private business venture managed by my wife June, which involved the creation, manufacture and launch of a liqueur called Oran Mor. The business was sold to Drambuie.

1996-1997 Managing Director of Scotmalt. Resigned.

1997 to date a consultant in the Malting/Brewing/Distilling Industries.

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