B.C. Beer Round-Up
Right first time Hagar sails a steady ccurse
April, 1998Almost four years ago, in April, 1994, an established pub in North Vancouver began making its own beer, and that very first recipe is still winning rave reviews.
Named in honor of its Scandinavian owners' heritage, Sailor Hagar's had been a pub for a decade, but when brewer Gary Lohin moved in and produced his first batch of Honey Pilsner, he got something right first time out. The pilsner is the pub's best-seller, and Lohin cranks out about 30,000 litres of it every year.
Always popular with local office workers in the neighbourhood, Hagar's is now attracting tourists and all kinds of Vancouverites across the bridge to sample its 14 busy taps, including five authentic beer engines, of draught. It's one of the only brewpubs in the country which has no attached restaurant, so the beer has to be in great shape to keep the 65 seats, (a legislated maximum for the province's brewpubs) filled with happy drinkers.
Like all good brewers, Lohin isn't afraid to experiment and go for big flavour. "My IPA is 85 IBUs," he says proudly, "probably one of the most bitter in North America." But that didn't stop it winning praise at the Great Canadian Beer Festival, where Hagar's been a regular exhibitor.
And like all brewers, Lohin is forgivably immodest when it comes to touting his craft. "I make the best beer in B.C." he laughs, quickly adding "I guess I have to say that, don't I?"
Lohin was a sales rep for Whistler Brewing before spending a year brewing for Okanagan Spring, and now that he's comfortably settled into his small but efficient operation, with help from part-time brewer, James Breuer, he certainly pushes the envelope when he can.
Only once has a batch been less than enthusiastically received. "I made a spiced ale for Christmas once, with lots of blueberries, and LOTS of spice." Too much spice, apparently. Although the bar regulars tried the tasty brew on draught it was over the top for the average palate. However, Lohin bottled the remainder and a cooling off period in the cellar tamed the brew somewhat, and an aged, robust but mellow ale finally emerged, to everyone's approval.
The beefcake brew this season has been Thor's Hammer, a potent barley wine, aged a full year and weighing in at 11.5% ABV, using British malts, Target, Challenger and East Kent Goldings hops. This heady brew is available on draught and it's also bottled, as are nearly all brews, for the pub's busy beer and wine store (this helps keep the operation in the black, since food revenue is limited). "It should be good, and keep improving, for ten years," says Lohin of his barley wine, if anyone can keep their bottle opener off it for that long.
Also popular during these dark days on Canada's wet coast is the Smoked Porter, served on draught under nitro-mix at 6.5%ABV, and Lohin is keen to experiment with higher alcohol levels. "The cooler is split, so we can keep the ales at around ten degrees (Celsius) while the lagers are stored at just above freezing, maybe two degrees."
There are no protected secrets here, just good old craft. "I just use Wyeast, Fuller's ESB for all my ales, and the lager yeast comes from Switzerland." Hagar's had some success with Belgian styles, too. The popular Wit, using whisky malt then spiced with orange peel and coriander, was one of the first to sell out at a local beer festival's off-sales, but the bottle size has been reduced from a litre to 650ml.
Lohin's also looking forward to a new lager this spring. "I'm bringing in some Chariot Pilsner malt from Europe, which is pale enough to make an authentic Bavarian Pilsner." Seems old Hagar can't get enough of the old European styles he never left behind.
Whatever the outcome, the pub's British handpumps will no doubt be kept busy for the rest of the year as this hearty Nordic sailor helps quench a Canadian thirst or two.
Sailor Hagar's 86 Semisch Ave. North Vancouver, BC Pub: 604-984-3087 Brewery: 604-984-2567
Shaftebury Shuffle
Gerry Hieter, founder of Whistler Brewing Company and founding director of The Great Canadian Beer Festival, left his position as sales rep for Shaftebury Brewing in mid-January.
This popular guy, accomplished brewer and beer judge, is rumoured to be opening a microbrewery in the near future. His friends and colleagues throughout the industry wish him well in this new venture. (At press time, Shaftebury had not named a replacement for Hieter's Vancouver Island territory).
