Spokane Breweries: In Search of a Beer Identity
City has colorful brewing history and solid contingent of craft breweries
April, 1999Northwest cities have their official nicknames: Seattle is the Emerald city, Portland the Rose city. The third-biggest metropolis in the region, however, has a grandiose moniker - Spokane, "capital of the Inland Empire."
But for all its Imperial bluster, Spokane "don't get no respect." In spite of its size, the city gets little mention in the parlance of the region. Even Redmond, WA, home of Microsoft, and Eugene, with the celebrated University of Oregon, are better known to outsiders. Until the recent success of the city's underdog Gonzaga University men's basketball team in the NCAA tournament, Spokane was hardly mentioned in the national media.The 1997 Fodor's tourist guide to the Northwest, in fact, doesn't even list Spokane as a place to visit.
All this disregard is not lost on Spokanians. As residents of this agricultural, mining, and timber center just 15 miles west of the Idaho border, the city's largely lower middle class population generally looks with scorn at the western half of the state. The largest city in Eastern Washington, Northern Idaho, Western Montana and Northeastern Oregon (the "Inland Empire"), Spokane rarely looks past the landed conservatism of its native population, while still beset with big city problems of crime and air pollution. In a region of small towns, Spokane might be the biggest "small town" of all.
Yet Spokane was far more important than Seattle or Portland in the early development of the Northwest frontier. Founded in 1810 by the Canadian North West Co., Spokane was an early outpost for the fur trade. It was first called Spokane House, named for the local Indian tribe ("children of the sun.") Located on the banks of the Spokane River, with two spectacular waterfalls right in the middle of the city, the town was renamed Spokane Falls in 1971. After Washington became a State, it was shortened to Spokane in 1891. The city became a railroad hub for the industry and farms of the region. Fairchild Air Force base, established on the outskirts, was a pilot training center during World War II. In 1974, the city enjoyed brief notoriety with Expo '74, a "world's fair" that successfully revitalized its Riverfront Park area downtown.
Spokane has a colorful brewing history. The first brewery established in Spokane was the Peterson Brewery in 1879. Others that followed included Palmtag & Wilson, Hencoe, Gorkow's New York Brewery, Union Brewery & Malthouse, Bohemian Breweries, Inc. Richter Brewery, Galland-Burke Brewing & Malting Co., American Brewing Co., B. Schade Brewing Co., Panhandle Brewing Co., Goetz Breweries, and Spokane Breweries, Inc.
Although it has been slower to embrace the craft beer revolution, Spokane now boasts six breweries and brewpubs within its metropolitan area.
Fort Spokane Brewing Co.
The Fort Spokane Brewing Co. was named for the historic brewery built in 1889 in the nearby town of Miles to supply the local army fort that once garrisoned soldiers for the new Washington Territory. The revived brewery was opened in the 100-year old Caputo hotel building on Spokane Falls Boulevard near Riverfront park. James Bockemuelhl, president of the brewery, is a direct descendant of Bernard Bockemuehl, the founder of the original Fort Spokane Brewery.
The antique nature of the establishment is immediately apparent to the visitor, with the the building's heavy timbers, tin ceiling, and massive antique bar. Opposite the pub is a glassed in area containing the 10-barrel brewhouse.
But the real treat for the beer lover is a tour of the "dungeon" - a subterranean series of nooks and crannies where much of the brewing actually takes place. In these catacomb-like chambers are the converted 14-barrel dairy tank fermenters, bright and serving tanks, keg filling station and storage, and a rudimentary counter-pressure bottling line.
Brewer Kim Hilton , 6 feet 7 inches tall, has learned to duck when dealing with underground pipes and fixtures. "you've got to watch it here," he laughs. We've lost a few people."
"Dungeon" or not, Kim is Fort Spokane's fourth brewer. He has been working at the brewery for the last one and a half years, learning his craft on the job.
Fort Spokane makes six year-round ales, which are always on draught at the brewery. In addition, the brewery distributes about 4 kegs of draught beer and 50 cases of bottled beer locally each week. The one-and two- quart brown plastic quarts retail for $3.50 and $5.50. They also sell beer to go, and will even fill your 5-gallon soda kegs for $15-18, depending on the brew. All told. Fort Spokane produced about 600 barrels of beer last year.
Fort Spokane's beers are mostly malty ales with more aroma than bittering hop character. Flagship beers include a Blond, mildly malty but with noticeable hops, Border Run, an amber ale with a light hop finish; Red Alt, soft and somewhat sweet, and very fruity American-style Wheat with a crisp hop edge, and Bulldog Stout, named for the now-famous Gonzaga mascot, a good dry Irish-style beer that is very popular. Also tasted was the brewery's Winter Ale, a sweet/sour amber brew with noticeable alcohol, made with a Belgian yeast. Fort Spokane will release its Leprechaun Gold, a strong golden ale (6.9% a.b.v.) this Spring.
Birkebeiner Brewing Co.
Just a few blocks away from Fort Spokane at 35 West Main Street is the Birkebeiner Brewing Co. Founded by owner/brewer James Gimurtu in 1994, it is located in an old dry goods warehouse and textile factory. The building has been extensively remodeled inside, with large storefront windows, a handsome bar and marble-topped tables. The surrounding area is sadly in need of refurbishing, however, consisting mostly of a row of crumbling warehouses. Just down the block is the House of Charity, a local mission for the homeless. It is reminiscent of Pioneer Square or the Market Area is Seattle twenty years ago, before its massive renovation.
But Birkebeiner is a bright spot in this somewhat seedy location. Gimurtu, an avid cross-country skier, named it for a legendary group of hardy Norwegian skiers who rescued the infant King Haakon V (birkebeiner means "birch binding") Originally from Minnesota, James has lived in Seattle and Portland, where he went to hotel/restaurant school in 1992. Afterward, he moved to Spokane to open a coffee bar. James decided to open a brewery after taking brewing classes at UC Davis in California, and getting hands-on experience at a couple of western Washington brewpubs. Gimutrtu opened Birkebeiner in May of 1994.
He has worked hard to make a go of it in an admittedly difficult spot for business. The brewery has a comfortable restaurant, managed by Joe Kaler. It is handsomely decorated with vintage beer posters from old Spokane breweries, advertising Bohemian Club from Bohemia Breweries and Goetz Beer from the Spokane Brewing Co. (with its certificate of excellence from Siebel Institute in Chicago, no less.)
The menu is more adventurous than most pub fare, with choices like Buffalo Burgers and several Cajun items, including andouille sausage and jambalaya. Prices are very reasonable as well. The restaurant is open from 11:30 a.m. to midnight weekdays, until 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights.
James brews with a 12 barrel brewhouse (the kettle size) from Century Manufacturing in Ohio, with two 22-barrel fermentation tanks. There are up to 12 beers on tap at any given time, including an American-style Hefeweizen; a somewhat fruity blonde ale; Alien Amber ale ( poured from a twisted rebar-hand tap handle), a nut brown ale, a roasty Scottish ale, a strongly bitter IPA, a seasonal winter dark, a hoppy, dark amber ale, and a roasty but smooth Oatmeal Stout. There are several fruit-flavored brews, including the blueberryish Tough Guy, a golden, aromatic but somewhat thin Belgian Raspberry, and an apricot ale, a cloudy pale ale which seemed to have the best fruit taste. Also available when I visited was a malty chili beer, with a good peppery aroma and not too much heat in the finish.
Ram International /Big Horn Brewing - Spokane
In contrast to the awkward location of Birkebeiner, the brewpub chain of Ram International, Ltd. has chosen a prime site for their Spokane Big Horn Brewing and Ram Restaurant - a three-story brick building right across from the new Spokane Arena on the north bank of the Spokane River.
Brewer Steve Samuelson is very happy with his job at the Spokane Big Horn. Samuelson, who grew up in the East Bat Area of California, has been here about two and a half years, after receiving his brewing education at UC Davis. Steve currently brews on an in-house 10 barrel system with no less than 21 10 barrel unitank fermenters. The organization also has a 5-barrel system at nearby Shenanigan's, where all of Big Horn's local lagers are made. Steve's assistant is David Donnally, another Davis graduate.
The beer menu at the Spokane Ram/Big horn is similar to other establishments in the chain, with a blonde ale, Buttface Amber, Big Red Ale, and Total Disorder Porter. But the lagers are distinctively different, There is a malty, lightly hopped but well-balanced (all Perle) Pilsner and a toasty, nutty Marzen (O.G.. 1.064) with a sweet malt finish. Both beers are lagered for six weeks (the ales receive four weeks of conditioning.)
As Steve points out, the Spokane Ram/Big Horn was the first in the state to brew beer. Besides a minor keg trade in the local area, which just began this past year, the brewery also supplies the nearby Mt. Spokane Ski area with four different draughts.
Not to be missed at the Spokane Ram is the Havana's nightclub, a posh bar and dining area on the third floor, with its own discotheque and dance floor. Cigars are, of course, welcome, and even sold on the premises. In an obvious concession to a younger, less well-heeled crowd, baseball caps are allowed dress code ("come as you are") one night a week. Havana's may be a little snooty, but it's still in Spokane.
Bayou Brewing
Bayou Brewing is a concept brewpub located in a cavernous, remodeled bus barn building on the banks of the river at the eastern edge of downtown. Started by a group of local businessmen, it is a theme restaurant/pub with Cajun/Creole food, a casino, bar, and brewery. Dimly lit with inside neon, the place seems carved out of the Everglades, except for the fancy formal dining room with its chandeliers and vista of the river.
The restaurant offers about 9 beers, all with the "bayou" theme. Bayou Light, very light and sweet like "mainstream" American lagers; Gator Ale, an amber beer with a very hoppy bite; Spokane Red, a "British style" ale that is thin with a caramel tang, Voodoo Dark, more flavorful but a bit astringent in the finish, and Swampwater Stout, my favorite, quite roasty with good hop and grain bitterness. Other beers include Mudbug IPA, an Octoberfest, a "Razberry Patch" fruit beer and a Dunkelweizen.
Food at the Bayou includes appetizers of gumbo ($2.95- $3.75) crawfish cakes ($8.95), and bean quesadilla ($7.95). Entrees are moderately expensive, such as "Cajun Popcorn" (Louisiana rock shrimp) at $18.95. "The Big Easy" Jambalaya, $15.95, Etoufée ($19.95) and blackened Creole- style fish (catfish, snapper, or salmon) from $13.95 - $16.95.
The brewer at Bayou Brewing is Ryan Trueblood , who uses a 30 barrel brewhouse, the first ever built by Spokane Industries, Inc. All beer is kegged for draught, either at the restaurant or for sale off-premise.
Northern Lights Brewing Co.
Located in a nondescript rented warehouse in Airway Heights, a sprawling suburb near the airfield on the west side of Spokane, Mark Irvin and partner Dave Brown have been brewing some very good ale since 1993. Irvin, who worked for Hale's Ales in both Colville, WA and Spokane, has inherited some of the equipment from Hale's original brewery, brewery, only the third established in the Northwest in 1983. There are four dairy tank fermenters with a capacity of 300 to 700 gallons and Mike's home-made "spaceship" 10-barrel (400 gallon) kettle.
Another unique feature of the brewery is a "coolship" - an open cooling tank for hot wort crammed with enough copper coils to make a clan of hillbilly distillers proud. "Believe it or not,it actually works real well," Mark says. From the coolship, the beer is pumped into fermentation tanks.
Following a diacetyl rest, all Northern Lights ales are lagered at 32 degrees F. Irvin believes it is this step that makes his beers so smooth and drinkable. They are then filtered before kegging or bottling.
Northern Lights sells about 500 kegs of beer annually, distributing it themselves to the Spokane area (which accounts for about 80 percent of their business) and also to some accounts in northern Idaho. "We had a local distributor once, but they dropped us," Mark says. "We've just had to do it all ourselves." The brewery made 550 barrels of beer in 1998, and expects to top 700 barrels this year. All of its bottled beer is in 22 ounce bottles.
The Northern Lights beers are among the best in the area, They include a Cream Ale, light but with some malt flavor and a crisp hop finish (20 IBUs of Liberty hops); a Pale Ale, a medium-bitter brew using Cascades and Columbus hops; the popular Crystal Bitter, an ESB-style amber ale with some caramel flavor; Dunkel, a darker brew with noticeable fruitiness and a nice chocolate flavor; and the excellent seasonal Winter Ale, an orange-amber strong ale with a great hop nose (Cascade and Columbus), ample alcohol (7.2% a.b.v..), and a well-balanced malt/hop finish.
Northern Lights is a working brewery with no pub or taproom, but they are open to the public and sell beer to go from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekdays. The brewery is a bit difficult to find, so it is best to call first for directions.
Spokane may not have the beer culture of Portland or Seattle, but craft beer lovers will not go thirsty here. It might take a bit more effort to find a decent pint, but that will make the journey seem more rewarding in the end. In the Northwest beer scene, at least, Spokane definitely deserves more notice.
