Tir-Na-Nog: A Bit O' Ireland Near Pioneer Square
Ram International adds a touch of Irish to its brewpub lineup
April, 1999by Rick Star
The term "Tir-Na-Nog" , borrowed from an old Irish fairy tale, means the "Land of Eternal Youth." It is also the name of a new pub and brewing establishment in the Pioneer Square area at the corner of 1st and Columbia in downtown Seattle. While you may not avoid the ravages of time sitting at the bar here, at least you can get a pint of Guinness or perhaps one of the house brews and some traditional Irish grub from the menu.
Located, oddly enough, in front of the older Owl 'N Thistle pub on Post Street, Tir-Na-Nog is immediately more prominent and ostentatious. As new as it is, however (opening in December of 1998,) the pub shows an obvious intent to make a connection with the past. Outside, along the First Avenue sidewalk, old newspaper clippings and advertisements decorate the pub's windows. Inside, the place is nothing short of immaculate. A tiled entry way opens to a room filled with dark woods, brass, and an abundance of leaded glass. Panels at the bar (hand-made in Ireland) are carved with traditional Celtic symbolism. Posts are topped with ornamental wrought iron. Antique fixtures hang chained from the ceiling, and vintage signs appear throughout. Although decidedly upscale, the overall effect is one of comfort and intimacy, important qualities for an establishment of this sort. A few privacy booths add a nice touch : two are in the main room and a larger one featuring what appears to be an operating wood stove is directly behind the back bar wall.
Tir-Na-Nog (pronounced Tear Na Noag) is the latest creation from Ram International, the same outfit that has brought us the Big Horn brewpub chain. Although Ram has been in existence for years with operations reaching as far as Texas, an Irish pub is a bit of a departure for them (editor's note: there are also pubs like Tir Na Nog created by the same company in Atlanta and Stamford, CT). Fueled by the initial success of the Nog, however, Ram plans to open similar establishments in Chicago and Portland later this year.
Deshawn Richardson, the restaurant manager, was kind enough to visit with me the afternoon I dropped in. A veteran of Ram operations, She has worked 3 1/2 years at their Tacoma location. Richardson said business has been strong at Tir-Na-Nog since their December opening with lines occasionally forming out the door.
An added attraction of the pub has been live music. Artists performing traditional Irish material are featured evenings Thursday through Saturday, and- in a welcome change of pace for Pioneer Square - there is no cover charge.
The menu, although not extensive, has good variety including traditional Irish dishes like lamb stew, boxty (sort of a stuffed potato pancake) and Shepherd's Pie. The dining room spreads out comfortably around the bar. Larger groups of up to thirty can be accommodated in "the dungeon".
Beer at Tir Na Nog is mostly from the Big Horn breweries. Besides Guinness and Harp, the draft selection includes the Big Horn brews Total Disorder Porter and Buttface Amber, an Irish Blonde (which seemed fashioned after a Harp with a little less hop bite), a cream ale and the Lowlander Scottish, which was unfortunately unavailable at the time of my visit. the copper-clad brewhouse, built by Newlands, is quite small, a one barrel pilot system. Because of the limited capacity, there is no full time brewer at the Nog. Instead, the pub uses a rotation of brewers from the U district and Puyallup Big Horns.
The hurdle that Tir-Na-Nog must overcome in Seattle is a lack of credibility as an historic watering hole. If you want authenticity, there's always Kell's Irish Restaurant & Pub which opened on nearby Post Alley at the Market close to twenty years ago. On the other hand, Tir Na Nog is very successful at creating the illusion of history. Time will ultimately tell if the pub can develop a tradition of its own.
Tir-Na-Nog
801 First Avenue Seattle 98104
ph. (206) 264-2700
¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥
"Star Reporter" Rick has been an avid home brewer for 10 years and a beer enthusiast even longer. A BJCP certified judge, he is a member of the Brews Brothers, the esteemed malting, mashing, sparging, hopping, barming and drinking society of greater Seattle and is an occasional contributor to their publication, Brews News. He lives in Kirkland, WA with his wife and two children. In his other life, Rick plays bass guitar for Seattle's Breadline Blues Band.
