Elysian Brewing Company: Seattle's Beer Heaven
If the gods lived in the Northwest they might drink here
August, 19991999 by Alan Moen
In classical Greek mythology, Elysium or the Elysian Fields was the abode of the blessed after death. Although the name might sound a bit romantic as a destination for those of us still very much here on Planet Earth, the Elysian Brewing Company in Seattle is really not an excessively romantic place. The panorama from its outdoor deck provides a sweeping view of the city, but inside, the Elysian seems to also provide a good glimpse of beer heaven.
Located at 12th and Pike Streets on Seattle's Capitol Hill, The Elysian is the work of three partners - Dick Cantwell, former brewer at Duwamps, Pike Brewing, and Big Time in Seattle, David Buhler, a beer and wine salesman, and Joe Bisacca, a local banker. "Joe and I started working on the business plan when I was still at Pike," Cantwell recalls. But it was Dave's enthusiasm that really got the project going. With his own beer brokerage business in Seattle, Dave was looking to start a restaurant/pub. Having learned of their idea at the at the National Small Brewers Conference in Portland in 1994, Buhler helped make it happen. "Dave just wouldn't leave us alone, " Dick says. "I was the loose gun," Dave agrees.
The partners decided to locate their brewpub on Capitol Hill, where no other breweries existed at the time. After looking at retail spaces there for about two years, they found what they wanted - a storefront space out of the more expensive Broadway business district, but conveniently close to downtown. With the help of 26 different investors, they raised $250,000 in start-up money and borrowed the rest.
Dick's experience as a brewer helped them design the brewhouse - a 20-barrel Newlands system. There are three fermentation tanks: two 20-barrel and one 40-barrel vessel. With two cool rooms for conditioning, kept at 35 degrees and 47 degrees F, Elysian was built to make both ales and lagers.
The copper-topped bar has unusual taps which descend from the ceiling. This was not done to indicate the beer's heavenly origin. According to Dave, running the lines overheard was the most practical way to get the beer there from the distant cooler. But there is an additional benefit. One of the quirks of Washington liquor laws is that no children are allowed to be present where beer is served. Since the beer taps do not actually touch the bar, however, it qualifies as a "lunch counter" and families are allowed to belly up.
The brewbub opened in May of 1996. Almost overnight, it was a hit, with excellent beer and better-than-normal pub food, with its menu originally designed by Melissa Flynn, the former chef at the Pike Brewing Co. With its proximity to the Capitol Hill scene, the Elysian attracted a young tattooed and body-pierced crowd, and live music kept the place hopping on weekends.
But the Elysian story has an unusual twist. A new entertainment venture just six blocks down the hill was built in 1997 called Gameworks. The multi-level video games emporium, backed by Steven Speilberg and the Sega Corporation, was looking for someone local to handle its beer and wine sales. Other breweries, including Pyramid, made their bid for the concession, but backed out when partial ownership of Gameworks was not in the cards. Thanks to the interest of the Elysian's former construction foreman, who was involved in the Gameworks project as well, Elysian got the deal, which included a new 4-barrel brewhouse on the premises. Suddenly the brewery, which had made "every effort not to be commercial", according to Dick, found itself involved in the most commercial space in town.
"I hate video games", Cantwell admits, "but it was a great deal for us." The beer and wine concession provided important cash flow for their fledging operation, and they also had a pilot brewery for small-batch specialty beers. Through self-distribution, Elysian was also able to gain 60 draught accounts in the Seattle area area before going with Sid Eland Distributing this year.
The beers at the Elysian continue the brewery's mythical theme in their names, but the brews are hardly effete. Dick and assistant brewer Marcus Stinson produce some heroic draughts. The current line-up includes Golden Fleece Ale, O.G. 1.048, lightly hopped and quaffable (3.4% alcohol by weight); Zephyrus Pilsner, (1.055, 3.9%) a nicely crisp Bavarian style with Saaz hops, The Wise ESB, an excellent, complex amber bitter made with Chinook, Cascade, and Centennial hops (1.058. 4.9%); The Immortal IPA , a golden strong Northwest-style IPA with plenty of hops (1.063, 5.25%); Perseus Porter, a fine robust style with chocolate malt and a hop backbone (1.058, 4.5%); Dragontooth Stout, a very smooth and fairly strong version made with 10% rolled oats (1.072, 5.7%); and Loki Lager, a beautiful Dortmund-style lager, orangish and malty, (1.054, 4.5%). Valkyrie Strong Ale, "strong, dark and handsome," is a malty, complex brew. Cask beer is normally available, and highly recommended. Special seasonal brews are always a treat at the Elysian, too. The Ambrosia Maibock, laced with a bit of woodruff, is popular in Spring. and the Bte Blanche (White Beast), "extremely drinkable and somewhat treacherous", a very fruity Belgian-style tripel ( 6% a.b.w.), is the perfect strong summer beer. Pint prices are $3.25-3.75.
The restaurant offers up some tasty fare to match the beer. There is a vegetarian slant to the pasta dishes prepared by chef Eric Greenwald, who also serves up some great seafood stews, pan-fries catfish, and fries with a special "Kli" sauce, as well as soups, sandwiches, and (naturally) fish and chips. Prices for entrees are very reasonable, from $4.95 to $7.95.
You won't feel quite like you're in heaven at the Elysian, but it doesn't seem too many pints away. If the gods really lived in the Pacific Northwest, they'd probably do their drinking in a place just like this.
Elysian Brewing Company
1221 East Pike
Seattle 98123
(206) 860-1920
Hours: Bar: Monday -
Friday 11:30 a.m. - 2 a.m.
Saturday and Sunday
noon -2 a.m.
Kitchen closes 10:30 p.m.,
Saturday -Thursday and
11 p.m. on Friday
